From traveller-now

Daejeon (대전, 大田, formerly Taejon) is the capital of South Chungcheong province and the fifth-largest city in South Korea.

Understand

Daejeon municipal government already dubs itself "a core city of research and development...the cradle of Korea's cutting-edge science sector." [1] And boasts of KAIST University "Korea’s [sic] top science educational organization" in addition to 232 research and education institutes [2] [3] Needless to say, ever since the Taejeon Expo '93 they've been that much closer to manifesting their scientific claims.

Like all cities in Korea, Daejeon has adopted a Konglish town slogan: "It's Daejeon". For those who actually care, the "it's" is meant to be an (b)ac(k)ronym symbolising: Interesting, Tradition and Culture, Science and Technology.[[4]] Rather clever.

Information

There is lots of information to be found on Daejeon on the web or once you arrive in the city. To pick up a map you can visit the information desk in EXPO Park or in Daejeon Station. However, the manager at the Daejeon International Community Center - a local non-profit (DICC) might have more information, speak better English and keep better hours (9 a.m. - 9 p.m. Tu-F & 10 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. than these tourist information centers. The DICC can be found across the street from the KTX train station, metro/underground take the #2 exit into the beginning underground shopping area, look for the #2 exit on your left, take the stairs on your left. The DICC will be on your right within 10m, located on the fourth floor with signs in English.

For information on local events visit socius, a foreigner designed website for experiencing both Expat and Korean culture (both current events and general information stickies) in Daejeon. The site owner and socius members collaborated to create a local google map with some of the places to eat, shop, tour, etc.; more than you'll be able to experience during a week-long vacation in Daejeon.

Orientation

Daejeon is separated into five gu (구), or districts, all of which maintain their own tourist website in english. Dunsan is not a gu, but is the central business district and where you will find the most shopping and restaurants. The area is essentially served by three stops on the metro; City Hall, Government Complex and Galma stops 111, 112, 113 respectively. For a more upscale shopping and accomodations head over to Yuseong-gu, which is the northwest part of the city, and is serviced by the Yuseong-spa metro stop.

Get in

By Plane

Cheongju Airport

While not conveniently close nor having international flights apart from China and Taiwan, Cheongju Airport technically services Daejeon and is best served for anyone arriving from Jeju or one of those flights from China or Taiwan. Flights to Jeju are very quick and reasonably priced if flying on Jeju Air, going for as low as 40,000 Won with a flight time less than two hours.

By train

Daejeon lies on the main train line connecting Seoul and Busan. There are two main train stations Daejeon and Seo-Daejeon Station. Both are served by the KTX, the korean speed rail. It takes from 50 minutes from Seoul to Daejeon. 100 minutes from Daejon to Busan. Conventional trains take about twice as long but come at a considerably lower price. As an example at the other end of the spectrum: an unreserved "deluxe floor" seat on the Mugunghwa from Seoul will set you back less than 9000 won and take almost 2 hours. A similar train from Busan to Daejeon will take almost 4 hours but cost under 15000 won. If these sound unreasonable, bear in mind that trains down the main line in Korea do sell out, especially on Sunday afternoons and into the late night so you may not have a say in the matter. On the bright side, the last Mugwanhwa from Busan terminates at Daejeon, so if stuck on its cold, cold floor, you can usually upgrade yourself (to 1st class even) after Daegu.

Depending on the direction you approach from, and where in Daejeon you are heading, you may want to try and get off at Shintanjin or Seodaejeon, the former of which also sometimes even services the KTX, although all trains from Seoul or Busan stop at Daejeon for sure.

By bus

To add to the confusion, if entering via bus, there are 3 intercity bus terminals, and several pick up stops for the airport bus express.

Dongbu inter city bus terminal connects to major cities in South and North Chungcheong province. Dongbu express bus terminal connects to major cities in South Korea via express way. Both of them are located in Yongjeon-dong. Seo-bu bus terminal in Yucheong-dong, connects to western regions of South Chungcheong provice such as Nonsan, Buyeo, Daecheon etc. Yuseong bus terminal located in Bongmyeong-dong connects to northern regions of South Chungcheong province such as Gongju, Yesan, Dangjin, Cheonan etc. There are two bus stop around government complex, some of express buses depart from Dongbu and Yuseong stop by as well as the bus destined for Incheon airport.

Get around

For non tourists, there's a Hana bank rechargable transportation card, which offers free transfers, when you open an account at Hana bank, your smart bank card can be charged with money to be used on busses, taxis. "Hankkumi" transportation cards are also available at manned booths within the metro stops. These cards cost 2500 Won and are rechargeable at the station or at many GS 25 locations. Unfortunately with only one subway line, which bisects the city and runs southeast from the northwest corner, only central Daejeon, old downtown (Daejeon station area) and a handful of sites are convenient to reach solely by metro. As of November 2010, the subway is still not yet compatible with Seoul T-money passes.

By Bus

The tour bus service is extensive, but a bit slow. Most buses pass through Daejeon station which does not have a bus rank. Instead, they all leave from one of about 10 stops dotted around the area. Note that bus routes 1 and 2 are express stops and annoyingly not even typically marked on the handful of bus shelters where they do stop. More information, can be found here but the tourism relevant bus routes are duplicated below:

• Expo Park - 121, 301, 606, 705, 911, 918
• Daejeon O-world - 301, 115, 311, 314, 318, 315
• Bomun-san (Mt.) - 119, 619, 618, 108, 313, 620
• Gyejok-san (Mt.) - 103, 617, 311, 314
• Daecheong Dam - 72, 73
• Gubong-san (Mt.) - 210, 114, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26
• Jangtae-san (Mt.) - 22
• Sikjang-san (Mt.) - 611, 619, 607, 313, 60, 61, 62, 63, 71
• Manin-san (Mt.) - 501
• Uam Historial Park - 311
• Jangsu Town - 312, 313
• Donghak-sa (Temple) - 107, 48
• Daejeon Korail Station - 1, 30, 31, 52, 60, 62, 63, 102, 311, 501, 511, 512, 603, 605, 606, 607, 612, 616
• Seodaejeon Korail Station - 119, 201, 202, 314, 612, 613, 701
• Shintanjin Korail Station - 2, 71, 72, 75, 703, 704, 705
• Dongbu Intercity and Express Bus Terminal - 2, 102, 105, 106, 201, 501, 601, 602, 607, 611, 616, 701, 802
• Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal - 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 31, 32, 34, 41, 42, 43, 45, 46, 47, 113, 316, 916
• Yuseong Intercity Bus Terminal - 109, 911

The same site also has a PDF map but the full map is also printed on practically every last bus shelter in town, which, combined with a pocket-sized printed copy of the above numerical list makes navigation rather easy.

By metro

Daejeon's first metro line opened in March 2006, connecting Daejeon Station to both the western and eastern parts of the city. The subway stations are fed by buses, and the fare is 1000 or 1100 Won a ride. The subway itself is extremely clean and tidy, and the stations are regularly decorated with art courtesy of local university arts students or schoolchildren. Small musical performances aimed at the older generations of Koreans (often some quite pleasant jazz actually) are sometimes held in Daejeon and Seodaejeon-negori stations. The second subway loop line marked on all the official maps, and set to open around the time of the 2002 World Cup is still yet to even begin construction as of 2010: don't get your hopes up.

See

Daejeon Station, a walk around the alleyways straight across from the station will offer you Ginseng stores and traditional medicine stores. It's across the street from the market [see buy].

• Hanbat Arbotoreum (한밧수목원 (''Hanbat Sumokuwon'')). A rather pleasant botanical garden to stroll through just across the river from Expo Park. It's big, although a bit sparse as the trees are still mostly quite young. Parts are still under construction as of November 2010. To get there, take the bus, or walk the long route around the Daejeon Government Complex from the subway, cutting through the government complex grounds, security willing. If coming by taxi, be sure to use the Korean name as "Abotoreum" is one of those ridiculous obscure words the city office has just pulled from a dictionary: nobody knows it. If you ask the driver to take you to the stadium actually, you'll likely end up here by accident. Free.  

• Dunsan Prehistoric Settlement Site, address (Government Complex Daejeon subway stop), [5]. When excavating for Dunsan new town in the early 1990s, a bunch of "stone-age" relics were discovered. Prior to the discovery, it was widely believed the region had a rather recent history. At a glance, the site is essentially a very hilly grassy park with scattered fake prehistoric huts built over it, but has extensive historical information for visitors. It's even open to a certain hour at night as the inside of the huts light up as you approach showing off an interpretation of what was discovered, complete with reproductions of the various farming and domestic tools unearthed. Two blocks north and one block west of the station. Free.  

Do

• Byunguh Benedict YU (CNU Architectural Limited), 251-5 Daeheung-dong, Jung-gu, ☎ 010-3656-1456, [6]. Architecture in Daejeon  

• Daejeon Observatory. Here you can observe the sun during the day or any number of celestial bodies at night. Located west of Expo Park, take the 604 bus to the observatory stop. Open from 2-10 p.m., closed Mondays and the day following a national holiday.  

• Daejeon Museum of Art, Daejeon Seo-gu Mannyeon-dong 396, [7]. Nestled between the Government Complex Daejeon, Hanbat Arbortoreum and the small Mannyeong-dong restaurant district. Has a spacious park filled with modern art sculptures out the front. A small stage out the front sometimes hosts free cultural performances on weekends. From the subway station, it's on the opposite side of the government complex itself.  

• Uam Historical Park, Dong-gu Kayang-dong (Bus #311), [8]. A pretty historic scholarly site nestled in a mountain valley. Has a well kept lake and quite nice to stroll around. Supposodly hosts a (poorly gazetted) festival sometime in October. For hikers, the trail hidden at the rear-left of the park continues up the mountain, past a place to fill your water bottles and after a rather short (<30 minutes) walk, all the way to the top of the ridge overlooking the lake east of town. Free.  

• Yuseong Foot Spa, Yuseong-gu (Yuseong Spa subway stop). A completely free outdoor heated foot spa. The temperature is pretty high but varies along the length so it's appropriate even in winter, and you won't overheat in summer. Note that unlike most foot spas, the local populace demands pre-washing of feet at the wash-station at the end of the footspa prior to entering (akin to the etiquette of a full body public bathhouse). Drop your stuff where you intend to sit, then walk down the end, wash up, and walk down the spa to get back to your seat. It can be an embarrassingly fulfilling sight seeing the eldery locals accosting Korean visitors from elsewhere in Korea unaware of this unstated rule. To get there, leave the subway station and head towards the main Yuseong junction to the north. Turn east and follow the wide grassy median strip about 500 m down the road. Free.  

• Daejeon Balloon Festival, (Opposite Expo Park, by the river). Once a year around October, this is not the international balloon festival you are likely thinking of. The 2010 edition of this annual event had a sum total of two hot-air balloons, both tethered tightly to the ground. However, as the sun sets, they let off an amazingly large quantity of small disposible lantern balloons that float off in the south-westerly breeze of the neon Smart Towers housing complex and into the mountains. Quite the sight to see! Both Daejeon city and the DICC have a tendancy to try and book in other festivals at the same time as this nearby to attract more out-of-town visitors, so keep an eye on local schedules.  

Incidently, the rivers flood plain adjacent to Expo Park is also where a lot of expat action takes place on the weekends outside of the festival, and also makes for a nice stroll.

For those looking for something a bit different, whilst Dunsan downtown tends to cater to the retail-loving crowd, in stark comparison the downtown area in central Daejeon (Jungangno subway station) and particularly the area a few blocks south tends to be rather artsy, including many small, often privately run art galleries, sometimes attached to independent coffee shops and on Sundays, occasionally even street stalls run by local arts students (Daejeon is rapidly becoming a university city).

Theme Parks

• Expo Park. Located in north Daejeon and site of the Taejeon Expo 1993. The city still holds great nostalgia for this place and as such, the (now rotting plastic) mascots feature heavily all over the city, even on the manhole covers. It's an eclectic mix of sciencey exhibits and disused halls with an out of place outdoor art plaza near the centre that even has a bit of (now heavily graffitied) the Berlin Wall. One of the buildings looks a bit like a Sandcrawler from Star Wars. Also contains the funky "year 2000 as imagined in the 70's" style Hanbit Tower. Enveloped in the far north of Expo Park there is a seperate but small themepark called Kkumdori Land complete with a small rollercoaster, although it's primarily oriented for kids.  

• O-World and Ppuri Park. Another themepark, this time on the far, far south end of the city. Easy to reach if coming by car: literally all major intersection signs across Daejeon point to here. By bus, you want the 301, 115, 311, 314, 318 or 315.  

Note that the Dreamland themepark up on Mt. Bomun, despite being marked on many maps is long since gone and the equally well known abandoned site also recently completely bulldozed.

Hike

Any, or all, of five mountains designated by Daejeon tourism amongst the city's eight most popular sites:

1. Mt. Sikjangsan (southeast)
2. Mt. Bomunsan (south)
3. Mt. Gubongsan (southwest)
4. Mt. Jangtaensan (south)
5. Mt. Gyejoksan (northeast)

Most have either a typical Korean gazebo at the top or a historic fortress wall, or often both. Springs offering drinking water are marked on the local maps. To find the start of the myriad hiking trails, a good rule of thumb is to look for burial mounds on the hills, as they are often lurking just behind them. Once on the trail, trail marking and intersection signposting is really good, but the actual start point locations are almost never announced (well, some are on Naver Maps).

• Donghak-sa Temple, Gongju-shi (Bus #107). Technically outside of Daejeon in the adjacent city of Gongju, but linked in on the Daejeon bus routes is the rather picturesque Donghak-sa Temple. In addition to the temple, the valley contains a tonne of restaurants, hotels and saunas (including a fair few of the funky "hobbit mushroom" styled ones) and a fairly dramatic waterfall, albeit dry much of the year. A well stocked tourist information booth exists at the entrance. An ideal starting point for a hiking trip over the region. Restaurants in the area tend to be well catered towards foreign (primarily Japanese) tourists with picture menus of the most popular items: a rarity in central South Korea. To get in, the 107 bus will take you from Daejeon Korail station direct, although it is much faster to take the subway to the National Cemetary station, and hop on the 107 there as it prepares to zip out of town. The bus stop is right next to the subway exit. 2000 won.  

Buy

As in most of Asia, the traditional market is located by the train station. The market by Daejeon Station is the general market, really nothing to write home about as far as appearances, the specialty stores are excellent, and you can get plants (from seeds to pots) which are not always easy to come by. Some household goods, and really cheap clothes are on offer, too. The street to southeast, outside the market perimeter specialises in tools. South East Asian import canned and packet food (including Mi Goreng) can be found at the International Foods shop in front of the Korail station near the bus ranks.

A second, slightly smaller traditional market exists in Yuseong. Further traditional markets still can also be found near Seodaejeon Korail station, opposite Hanbat stadium, and a little further east of the Dongbu Intercity bus terminal.

For further discounts, Nouen wholesale market is located north of Yuseong. Take the subway line and get off at the World Cup Stadium stop (the subway plays a little soccer themesong so you can't miss it).

There's a Costco directly beside Seodaejeon station. Costco offers OK discounted prices, and most everything is in bulk, but you can get some hard to find goods imported from the USA. You will need a personal (Gold Star) membership for 35,000 won, or you can use your card from home. It can solve dry food purchasing for a month or more in a single trip; watch out for seasonal specials, the November truffles make for nice, and cheap, gifts. The Seodaejeon area also has the stock standard Home Plus, as well as some clothing department stores. The area is becomeing rapidly one of the most affluent in the city so expect to see more fancier outlets opening here over time. Daejeon's one and only Uniqlo (Japanese unbranded clothing chain) is also located here: good to know in winter as it sells cheap thermals.

E-Mart and Home Plus (Tesco) is relatively ubiquitous, and a bit dear too. It does however offer a variety of basic house goods for settling into a new home, as well as basic general produce (both fresh and dry), which are marginally cheaper than the prices in most corner stores, as well as offering it all in one stop. If you can't afford to set up your new home here, perhaps try tracking down a Daiso, a Korean "1000 won store" chain that stocks all sorts of kitchenware crap and just general plastic tat.

For cool summer shopping and warm winter shopping head underground. Underground shopping can be found connected to metro stops at Daejeon Station and Jungang-no, stops 104 & 105 respectively, on line 1.

If looking for general Korea souvenier-items, two shops, quite literally opposite one another are underground at subway Exit 2 of Daejeon station (stop 104 on Line 1). They specialise in a wide variety of trinkets including from mass-produced to a few bits and bobs from elsewhere in the country.

Also department store shopping is popular for the more affluent of Daejeon at Timeworld Galleria, Lotte Department Store and CGV; each of which also house a movie theater on its top floor. Timeworld plays host to an array of overpriced brand outlets such as Burberry and Louis Vuitton, which despite the lacking crowds, still insists on having its patrons queue up to enter. The basement sells a great variety of premium import foods.

Most electronic needs can be found at TechnoWorld, which is close to KBS tower in Manneyong-dong, Seo-gu. For further consumer electronics, try the street running between Government Complex Daejeon subway station to Timeworld Galleria in the vicinity of Dunsan E-Mart: this street has no fewer than 3 electronics department stores (Hi-mart, Jeonja Land) plus smaller specialty stores (LGgoodshop etc.). Apple has a retailer called Frisbee outside Jungangno subway station, Jung-gu.

For funky independent-made items, keep an eye out for university-run arts fairs. Theres no real way to know when you'll find one, but they are seemingly quite common.

Eat

In addition to the copious amounts of Korean restaurants and Koreanised "Japanese" izakayas scattered all over town, some foreign restaurants, including Italian cuisine can be found around the two main downtown districts of Dunsan-dong (opposite Timeworld) and near Jungangno station. Amongst the Korean fare, oddball theme restaurants are scattered around town too. There are a couple of "hobbit mushroom" type eateries in Dong-gu near the Intercity bus terminal, a restaurant called literally Nameless (이룸업숨) in front of Woosong university whose decor could be be best described as "clusterbomb of ropes" and a full military themed chicken joint on the wrong side of the tracks in Shintanjin (follow the road/lane due south from the Loving Hut listed below). The following are a few of the more outstanding or unusual eateries:

There is a Vietnamese restaurant north of Dusan-dong E-Mart about one kilometer on the northwest corner. It is opposite the Primus theater, which you should be able to use as a landmark. The menus have pictures and about 75% of the entrées have a name written in English (not romanized Hangul), the entrées run fairly cheap for foreign food, at less than 10,000 won and many hot Phở for around 5,000 won. A nice experience with complimentary tea as well.

For excellent Indian food, a new restaurant called Indy just opened up diagonally across from the E-Mart in Dunsan Dong. The service is kind of on the slow side and a bit expensive, but it's worth it in the end. The curry dishes are the best bets because they come with free rice or naan. The naan is a superb choice. To get there, all you have to do is say "Dunsan-dong E-Mart" to a cab driver. It's located on the Southeast corner of the intersection. Look for a T.G.I.F. and a Hanbok Store. If you're trying to get there via subway, get off at Government Complex Station. If you're getting there by bus, the 185, 215, and 115 all drive by it.

For vegetarians or vegans, the Loving Hut chain of organic, vegan, new pseudo-religious group-run restaurants has an outlet up in Shintanjin. At Korail Shintanjin station, cross the tracks to the wrong side, head north about 10 metres, and then 1 block west. As with all the outlets in this chain, the menu is different at every outlet: Shintanjin mostly serves rice or noodle based fare, but has a Western-style fake-meat item. Prices typically under 5000 won, everything is cooked deliciously fresh on the spot, the owners are friendly and probably won't try to convert you. Fake-meat can also be purchased to take home. According to one website in late 2010, it sounds like a second outlet may be opening near Expo Park (which would be great, Shintanjin is a good hour from anywhere in Daejeon), but it is not yet listed on the main website. [[9]]

The Korean premium-dine-in burger chain Kraze Burger has an outlet in Dunsan-dong, about one and a half blocks west from the main Timeworld intersection and on the north side of the road (backing on to the drinking precinct). Noteworthy because this chain as well as being rather tasty, has extensive options for those that do not eat meat, including a mushroom-and-tofu-packed vegetarian burger as standard on the menu.

For baked goods, try Sung Sim Dang. Established in 1956, this bakery stands out as actually possessing a wall full of past awards and credentials on display: and although the prices for baked goods are similar to what you'll find eslewhere, you can taste the difference. In Eunhaeng-dong, near Jungangno subway station (a few blocks south), A good guide to get there is to walk from the wooden "love" bridge over the river west a few pedestrian blocks until you reach the main road: Sung Sim Dang is on your right, the signage is all romanised by standard. Theres also a food court upstairs serving typical continental fare.

Finally, if just looking for a quick snack, don't be afraid to try the street food. In central Daejeon, around Jungangno in particular, there tends to be at least 1-2 of the standard Korean freestanding odeng (fishcloth on a stick, etiquette states you literally just grab a stick, eat it, and pay after you finish, most common price 500 won) and toppokki (spicy ricecake, fishcloth and eggs in red spicy sauce) stalls per block, plus a handful with pernament shopfronts. The funny looking "buns" you may see the owner frying up are in fact essentially an inside-out pancake with syrup and are delicious: contains nuts.

Drink

There are two major "downtown" areas for drinking in Daejeon. One is in new-town in Dunsan-dong, opposite the Timeworld Galleria shopping complex, and a short walk from Government Complex Daejeon subway station. The second is in the city centre of old Daejeon, down by Jungangno subway station.

In addition, two further large drinking quarters exist in Yuseong and around Chungnam University as well as opposite Seodaejeon Korail station. Smaller areas of bars naturally exist beside each of Daejeon's universities, such as Hannam in the far East and Woosong in the far south.

• Santa Claus Lounge Kung-Dong. Basement hangout place that offers free: darts, pool table and fooseball. This bar is popular with foreigners, especially international KAIST students.

• The Shisha House. Kung-Dong 404-5. The Shisha House is one of only a handful of bars in Daejeon that carry draft imported beer. The bar is owned by a French expatriate, and is typically very popular for shisha smokers and shisha newcomers. 8000 won for a shisha, 5000 won for a beer.

• Sponge Dunsan-Dong. Sponge is a bar that offers western style drinks and imported bottles along with 2 dart boards and free pool. It is one of the largest bars in Daejeon and is frequented by expats, locals and travelers.
• Yellow Taxi, Dunsan-Dong. Yellow Taxi is the newest western bar in Daejeon. It is very large, with enough space to dance in, and has lots of tables to sit and enjoy company. They serve good drinks and good food. They also have 2 dart boards and a pool table. They have live music (rock, funk, blues, electronic) almost every weekend.  

Note that the current status of the infamous Daejeon Hitler bar remains unknown, but it was last reported to be situated around Seodaejeon Korail station in late 2008. Likely gone by now.

Sleep

Budget

Jimjillbangs are not ubiquitous, but they are there.

• Dong Bang Sak Leports, (Nearest subway stop is Government Complex Daejeon, but it's a fair walk north). Located in Mannyeon-dong, about 3 blocks south of the KBS broadcasting tower this jimjillbang charges 8000 W at night, but looks like a disney theme park. They have a cave, a "normal" sleeping room as well as a really cool spot where you sleep in "nature" with reeds and bird tweets. Past the normal things, they have a restaurant, internet cafe, Playstation room, as well as drink bar, a facial and hair cut, and ice and oxygen rooms. All are charged to the key and payable on the way out. Don't forget to get a parking pass on the way out if you came by car. Name is romanised on the signage, so it's fairly easy to spot.  

Another jimjillbang is available in Rodeo Town.

A Youth Hostel has dorm beds for 7000-8000 won per night. It is located in southern Yuseong, approximately a 10 minute walk south from Hanbat Nat'l University or you can take the 102, 103, 104 or 113 bus to its western termination and then walk east for its approximate location.

• From Daejeon Station, just talk behind the station to the Deajeon bus terminal and wait for the 102 bus and take it to the very end to the western terminal. You will then take the left fork and going away from the terminal, which is adjacent to the restaurant buildings, and you will see a left turn, about 250m, which leads to a very big Youth Hostel. It appears to be intended mainly for conventions and conferences. There are just rooms where you get a blanket to sleep on the floor so don't expect beds. Showers are shared.

Mid-Range

You can look for love motels which vary in quality, price and cleanliness. Most western style hotels with close proximity to the metro line are located in the Yuseong Spa vicinity. This is also where you will find the splurge hotels so inquire ahead. The Yuseong district office maintains an up-to-date list with contact numbers on their website. [[10]]

Outside of Yuseong, chain hotels such as the Japanese Toyoko Inn also exist around the Government Complex Daejeon.

Splurge

Riveria is classified as the only 5 star hotel in Daejeon. It's rooms start at 180,000 Won and go upto 300,000 for a Junior Suite and 1,000,000 for the Royal Suite.

Stay safe

Daejeon is a very safe city by global standards. Note that Daejeon does not play host to a US military base, and as such, anti-American sentiment (and by extension, anti-Westerner sentiment) is low. If anything in town could be deemed dangerous, eldery drunks occasionally congregate around the front of Daejeon Korail station at night, including weeknights. Ironically, they are more inclined to hurl abuse at or chase down groups of obvious foreigners than individuals.

Unlike Seoul, tap water in Daejeon is not deemed "drinkable", but it won't make you sick if you ingest a bit. Locals tend to boil their water, purchase afforable bottled water, or fill their own bottles at local parks or at the mountain springs that surround town.

Get out

According to the city government, you can get to anywhere in South Korea from Daejeon within half a day. Seoul and Busan are less than an hour and two hours away, respectively, on the KTX. There are several pick up spots for the airport bus, which charges a princely sum of about 14$US for the ride. Also see [Get in] for information on travel to Jeju. Another option to get to Jeju would be to take KTX to Busan and catch a ferry but this would be both less economical and efficient.

Mt. Daedun, one of Korea's more famed mountains (you may have seen photos of its suspension bridge) is closeby at a 45 minute bus trip away. Buses depart from the Dong-gu Intercity bus terminal at 10.30 am and 10.30 am. Miss it and you're out of luck.

Going to Gongju to see the Beakje tombs costs 3500W each way.

Work

Like all Korean cities, Daejeon has numerous job openings for ESL / EFL teachers at public schools and private academies. Most teaching jobs require applicants to be a native English speaker and to have a three- or four-year college degree. Salaries for teaching jobs generally start between 2.0 and 2.5 million Korean Won per month and often include free housing and round-trip airfare on a one-year contract. Since the Korean won has dropped precipitously in value relative to other major currencies, salaries are starting to rise. Nevertheless, teaching English in Korea is not currently anywhere near as lucrative as it used to be.

For more information about teaching English in Korea through the priavte-sector, visit eslcafe.com, worknplay.co.kr, eslstarter.com and englishspectrum.com. For the public-sector, visit epik.go.kr.